Un-crowded beaches, vast areas of Virgin wilderness ... an abundance of wildlife and related surroundings have helped the barrier islands of Sanibel and Captiva become one of the best known resort and retirement areas in the country.

To understand exactly why the charm of these islands is so special, one needs to know something of their origin and their rich, romantic past, Suffice to say that once people become acquainted with Sanibel and Captiva, they will know why their beauty and serenity is so passionately protected through a realistic "Land Use Plan" for orderly and limited growth.

What follows is a compilation of facts for first time visitors and islanders alike who want to know about these two tiny pearls in the strand of barrier islands that fringe the southwest coast of Florida. It includes a historical sketch of their evolution from the distant past to the islands we know today.

History of the Islands

Just off the Southwest Coast of Florida in a seemingly remote corner of the world is an island filled with peace and quiet. Where warm breezes off the Gulf of Mexico kiss shell-strewn beaches. The unspoiled barrier island of Sanibel nestles at the mouth of the Caloosahatchee River, steeped in rich romantic history; an island that remains as quiet today as when it began ... a tiny speck of sand that collected with others around 3,000 B.C. to form what would eventually become a string of offshore islands stretching southward along Florida's Gulf coast.

In contrast to the others, Sanibel extends out from the, Florida peninsula in an east to west direction, its crescent-shaped shoreline facing generally to the South and the Gulf waters. Between Sanibel's beaches and shell ridges were palm forests, marshes and prairies that spawned migrating wild birds, deer, turkeys, rabbits and quail. Offshore billions of sea lives grew and became food for larger sea life - giant groupers, silver kings, devilfish, sawfish, sharks and sea turtles. Eagles, pelicans and seabirds soared above.

At some time lost to history, came human occupation. Between 500 B.C. and 1 A.D. came inhabitants known as the Mound People, the Pile Dwellers, and then, much later, those known as the Caloosas.

Somewhere around 1,200 A.D., according to radiocarbon evidence, there was an extensive Indian civilization. At least a hundred shell mound cities existed where the people made great hauls of mullet and roe which was cleaned, salted and smoked with low-burning buttonwood fires in drying sheds of palm thatch. These people worshipped in temple mounds and buried there dead in shell banked sand mounds.

So it was when Juan Ponce de Leon sought the sun drenched isle "that jutted out into the seas" some 450 years ago. The year was 1513. With two caravels and a brigantine, de Leon made his way along Sanibel's beaches through shoals of San Carlos Bay to what is now Fisherman Key. He is said to have spent 21 days on Pine Island searching for rumored treasure. Ponce de Leon considered the islands his by right of discovery under the rule and royal patent of King Ferdinand of Spain. Others visiting the islands after him seemed intent on conquest and taking of slaves.

After that came more explorers. De Cordoba in 1517, Narvaez in 1529, De Solo in 1539 the two latter visits had tragic endings Then on Feb. 17, 1566, came Pedro Menendez de Aviles. Menendez stayed for a time, supposedly marrying the sister of Caloosa Chief Carlos. But in 1567 Carlos decided Menendez was not treating his sister well and saw him as a threat to his people, so he ordered the Spaniards to leave and threatened to kill Menendez. Records differ as to who plotted what, but the fact remains that Carlos and 18 to 20 others, be it Indians or chiefs, were beheaded.

From then on, the Caloosas were so hostile that no Spanish military power was able to ever again establish the slightest foothold on their coast. Missionaries continued to come periodically, but all were turned firmly away. Next came friendly Cuban traders, and with them white man's disease.

Smallpox, tuberculosis, yellow fever and measles swept through entire villages. Thousands perished.

By 1708 there was another threat. A slave route had become established around Point Ybel and up the river to Lake Mayami (Okeechobee). Those who escaped the slave traders fled to the depths of the Everglades. By 1769 all who inhabited the islands and surrounding area were but a few Spanish Indians, some fugitive black slaves and a smattering of renegade whites.

Tales of Pirates

The escapades of Lafitte, Blackbeard, Black Caesar, Black Augustus and Gasparilla, linger like the early morning mists among the palms. According to sketchy history, Black Caesar made his home on the Sanibel shell mounds of the Bay. As the story goes, he was a runaway slaves who, after one haul - 26 tons of silver from a ship on the open seas - buried his treasure near Miami. But with the arrival of settlers, he grew nervous and moved his cache to Sanibel where there were fewer people and he could maintain a watch on the Gulf and Bay. Unfortunately, the widow of a Baltimore preacher seeking vengeance because Black Caesar had burned her husband’s eyes out trailed him. She located Caesar on Sanibel, contacted authorities who caught and took him to Key West where they tied him to a tree and burned him ... the widow herself setting light to the fire.

Another such tale is the one about Jose Gaspar who is purported to have lived on Gasparilla Island and buried his treasure on Sanibel or Useppa. Gaspar is said to have held lovely ladies captive on "Captiva " Island ... their wails of despair rising on the lonely nighttime breezes. As the story goes, he captured a Spanish princess with a group of Mexican Indian girls on a ship bound for Spain, divided the maidens amongst his men, saving the princess for himself. Unfortunately, he fell in love with her - a love she virtually spurned, until in frustration, he had her lovely head chopped off. It’s reported, she haunted him till the day he died, and that her remains are buried in an unmarked grave on Captiva.

The favorite story ending is that as one of his pursuers advanced upon him, Gaspar wrapped an anchor chain around his legs and jumped overboard ... and there he remains in the waters of the pass, beyond the island where his beloved princess lies.

Down through the years, Sanibel's history continued its colorful route. In 1833, two settlements were established under the Florida Territorial Acts. It was this group who first petitioned for a lighthouse on Point Ybel. Shortly thereafter, the government in an attempt to make Florida safe for development decided the Indians would have to be brought under control.

 In a subsequent treaty they were banished to a "reservation” between Charlotte Harbor and the Caloosahatchee River opposite Sanibel. The Indians were given "two moons " to move off the islands. Most went silently but at night there were campfires, war dances and war cries. Thus the Seminole War began in 1837. In November of that year, Ft. Dulaney was built on Punta Rassa. The Indian uprisings were many and bloody but squelched like tiny bonfires, and when the Seminole Wars ended in 1842 only 301 Indians were left.

When Florida seceded from the Union in 1861, there was no one living on Sanibel. As the Civil War dragged on, cattle from upstate became an important commodity. Confederates paid eight dollars a head. But in Havana the rate was two ounces of Spanish go1d. So it was not long, before Punta Rassa became a major shipping point. Federal forces moved to establish camps at Point Ybel and Punta Rassa, but like the pirates of old, cattlemen found ways to slip through the inside waters of Sanibel and around the Federal blockades.

After the Civil War, in 1868 came an ex-Union soldier named William Smith Allen who landed on Sanibel and set out a crop of castor beans. At about the same time, Terevo Padilla, a commercial fisherman from the Canary Islands, established his family on the barrier island of Cayo Costa and opened fishing camps on Sanibel and Captiva.

Meanwhile the Inter-Ocean Telegraph Co. of Newark, N.J. claimed the old barracks and buildings of Ft. Dulaney, soon stringing out wires throughout the state and southward, under the water, to Key West and Havana. It was written of the area at the time that it was a "sad and lonely coast with an infrequented sea.” And so it was. Even by 1875, travelers hardy enough to make their way down the coast could only get board at one small place in Charlotte Harbor or at Punta Rassa. Most points were reached by the tri- weekly stagecoach from Tampa, and then by sail or steam launch by way of Cedar Keys. In spite of the difficulties, more pioneers came, among them Samuel Woodring and Edwin Reed. And after the lighthouse was finally built 1883, Henry and Eugene Shanahan arrived as the keeper and assistant.

The first Sanibel lighthouse was a coal burner with a long mantle. The keeper had to climb to the top of the tower, light the burner with a match at sundown, and then go back the next day at dawn to blow it out. The light operated like a clock, with a weight on a rope synchronized with the flashing light, and it had to be wound at regular intervals. The kerosene for it, contained in five-gallon cans, was carried up the spiral stairway - a real ordeal.

There were only five families living on the sprawling island then, all out-of-sight of one another. The lighthouse keepers lived in two houses at the base of the tower. Henry Shanahan brought his family with him from Key West. They had seven children when his wife died. The nearest house was that of the Rutlands, a considerable distance away (located near Bailey Road). Not long after Mrs. Shanahan passed away, Mr. Rutland died, leaving his wife, Irene, with five youngsters. Directly, Henry, married Irene and they all moved to the lighthouse. Later they added one more to the brood. By 1889, there were 21 houses and 40 families on Sanibel - total, population 150. That year Flora Sanibel was born to Samuel and Anna Woodring, the first child to be born on the island. Among the other early homesteaders were George Barnes, an evangelist/missionary who came with his son and two daughters. They built a place on the Gulf, gradually adding “guest cottages” and calling their settlement "The Sisters.”

When Georgia Barnes married, her husband, Maj. Edward Duncan, built her a gorgeous two-story rococo-style house with fancy cupolas and porches called Thistle Lodge. Along with her father's establishment, it was to be the forerunner of today's modern Casa Ybel resort. As homesteaders began to discover Sanibel, the cattle trade, which had made Sanibel and Punta Rassa famous, began to diminish.

By the late 1880’s railroads on the east coast to Key West spelled doom for the cattle trade here.

While eventually the railroad would spell success for Ft. Myers, at that time it came only as far as Tampa. To Sanibel, transportation was by railroad owned steamer. But even the steamer could not reach the island due to shallow waters, so it docked at St. James City on Pine Island. Those wishing to come to Sanibel had to come by small boat. Nevertheless, for the first time Sanibel had regular mail and transport service.

By 1900, mail sacks were put off the steamer at Reed's Dock, taken by carrier to the post office and from there delivered by horse and buggy, thus establishing one of the first RFD (rural free delivery) routes in the U.S. By mail the islanders maintained their only communication with the outside world - receiving seeds, food, medicine, clothes, lumber, nails and fertilizer. Their lives depended on it.

From the l880’s to the turn of the century, development bustled along, across San Carlos Bay; Ft. Myers was becoming a hub of activity. Thomas Edison drew national attention to the town by making it his winter home and establishing a laboratory where he was conducting some very important experiments. The rich and famous also flocked to St. James City across the Sound on Pine Island where the magnificent new San Carlos Hotel was built. And Punta Rassa, the Tarpon House earned, quite a reputation as a first-class hunting and fishing lodge, attracting the nation's wealthiest sportsmen.

Meanwhile on Sanibel Island, homesteaders had found their paradise. Island farmers such as Frank and E.R. Bailey found the climate allowed for planting from early fall through the following June. Their luscious Sanibel tomatoes soon became famous in the North and the Baileys formed the Sanibel Packing Co. While they were at it, the Bailey Brothers opened a general store on the Bay, which, although at a new location, still operates today. The area could rightfully be termed “paradise" in that the sunny climate was warm and balmy year around and food resources were, plentiful - rabbits, gophers, shellfish, turtles, oysters and clams abounded.

So good was the farming that by 1910 everybody was raising vegetables. Steamers came and went, regularly, transporting both, vegetable crates and friendly passengers. Telephone service became a reality and Teddy Roosevelt visited Captiva. A bridge was built over Blind Pass connecting Sanibel and Captiva and Clarence Rutland started a taxi service with his Model-T Ford. The exact year is widely debated, but it was during one of the two treacherous storms - one in 1921, another in 1926- that the swirling current of Pine Island Sound swept across a narrow neck of Captiva. Redfish Pass was born, separating Captiva and Upper Captiva.

People and progress had come to Sanibel but it still took three days to get to Ft. Myers and back. You caught the noon steamers, arriving up river that night, conducted your business the next day, and returned home on the morning steamer the third day around noon. It wasn't until 1928 that the Kinzee ferry, carrying seven cars and making four trips a day, provided service from Punta Rassa to Sanibel

During the Depression years Sanibel languished in the sun as she always had. People from the mainland would ferry over, picnic all day and gather seashells. By 1931 collecting was such a popular activity; the annual Shell Fair was born. Neither hurricanes nor the Depression could darken the sheer joy of escape the quaint isle of Sanibel had to offer.

But WWII meant ferryboats were requisitioned for troop use. Curtailment of ferry service and a shortage of gas and tires, plus bad roads meant fewer visitors came and fewer trips were made off the island. Planes and bombers from the gunnery school of Ft. Myers disrupted the accustomed peace of the islands. On occasion, stay practice bullets ripped through roofs and rainwater tanks.

In 1945 Sanibel was made a State Wildlife Refuge and a large tract was designated a National Refuge. Since then additional acreage has been obtained and added until today the Ding Darling National Wildlife refuge covers over 5,000 acres.

After WWII development accelerated on Sanibel. Electric service was added and roads paved. Life on the islands still moved at a leisurely pace, slower than on other parts of the workaday world. The building of the toll bridge from Punta Rassa to Sanibel in 1963 opened up a new world to the paradise that for so long was something of a well kept secret.

In 1974, islanders voted to become a city. Since then they have steadfastly fought to keep a strong hold on Sanibel’s unspoiled natural beauty through a land use plan that is strictly enforced. On Sanibel and Captiva where marauding pirates once rested, man’s intrusion will be kept to a minimum.

ARMCHAIR CHRONOLOGY OF THE ISLANDS

About 3,000 B.C. - Sanibel Island begins as a sand flat at the Southern end of Captiva - one of many barrier islands created by ocean water currents.

500 B.C. to 1 A.D. - Estimated date (by Dr Jerald Milanich, University of Florida archeologist) of early human occupation revealed in Indian mounds located in the Wulfert area of Sanibel.

1200 A.D. - Extensive evidence of Indian civilization, presumably precursors of the famous Caloosa civilization that covered much of this area, is found on Sanibel. Dating is based on radiocarbon dating of material found in an ancient Indian mound on Sanibel.

1521 - Historians agree that in a second voyage to these waters in this year (first voyage made in

1513- Ponce de Leon landed on an island near the mouth of the Caloosahatchee River, bringing with him a number of missionary priests to convert the Indians.

The Indians resisted and de Leon received a wound, which later, in Havana, Cuba, proved fatal.

1765 - First known appearance of a harbor on Sanibel is labeled on a map - listed as Puerto de. S. Nivel (or, South Plane Harbor).

1768 - An official Spanish map identifies Sanibel as Puerto de S. Nibel (the "v" and “b” being interchangeable). The origin of the name Sanibel is excerpted from “The Sea Shell Islands" by Elinore Dormer. In her book she further states, "Why, then Sanibel," because S. can also mean saint ... thus the corruption to Sanibel from “Sn. Nibel.” Mrs. Dormer says; "It is sheer fiction that the island was named in memory of Queen Isabella."

1833 – Private investment group from New York establishes the town of "Sanybel" on the east end of the island. It lasted only a few years until the founders were threatened by Indian unrest and returned home. They had previously petitioned the government for a lighthouse at Point Ybel.

1861 - There was no one in residence on Sanibel when Florida seceded from the Union in .1861.

1870 - William Smith Allen and his son George, aged 16, were the only residents of the island when the census was taken in 1870. Allen had a castor bean plantation he established in 1868.

1860's-80s - Terevo Padillia, grandfather of Esperanza Woodring and commercial fisherman from the Canary Islands, establishes his family on Cayo Costa and opens a fish camp on Sanibel and Captiva.

1877 - Lighthouse -Board repeats an earlier request of 1856 that Sanibel be reserved for lighthouse purposes. Request is answered favorably.

1878 - Homesteading withdrawn on Sanibel for the purpose of establishing a lighthouse reservation.

1883 – Congress finally approves plans for lighthouse. On December 19, the entire island becomes a reservation by Executive Order.

1884 - Work begins on the lighthouse; light station activated August 20. Dudley Richardson was first lighthouse keeper, assisted by John Johnson.

1888 - Henry Shanahan, wife and two sons moved to the island, as all but the eastern end is reopened for homesteading. Samuel Woodring and Edwin Reed also arrived to homestead.

1889 - There were 21 houses and 40 families on Sanibel with a total population 150. In January, Flora was born to Samuel and Anna Woodring, said to be first child born on the island

1890-1920 - Wulfert area becomes busy farming community with Post Office opened 1897.

1892 - First school was built with cost to Lee County "not to exceed $75.00”

1894 – Ernest Bailey comes to Sanibel. Two brothers, Harry and Francis, and his widowed mother from Virginia later joined him. The brothers farmed and established the Sanibel Packing Company, later to become Bailey's General Store.

1898 - First telephone wire installed linking Sanibel with the main1and. First exchange built by United Telephone on island in 1963.

1904 - Mail was brought to Sanibel by Kinzie Brothers steamship line.

1910 - Worst hurricane ever to hit Sanibel strikes in October.

1918 - First bridge built between Sanibel and Captiva.

1921 and 1926 - Severe hurricanes result in destruction of Sanibel's thriving produce business.

1926 - Kinzie Brothers started Sanibel ferry service.

1927 - Land booms brings three platted subdivisions to Sanibel - Sanibel Center, Sanibel Gardens and Sunniland del Mar. Street signs put up in "The Rocks. "

1927 - First Sanibel Shell Fair held.

1936 - Edna St. Vincent Millay loses manuscript of "Conversations at Midnight” in Sanibel Palms Hotel fire.

1942 - Electric service first comes to Sanibel.

December 1, 1945 - Sanibel and Captiva were designated by the state of Florida as a State Wildlife Refuge. The Sanibel National Wildlife Refuge was established this date on 2,956 acres of land leased from the State of Florida for refuge purposes under the authority of the Migratory Bird Conservation act. On December 2, l947, all of Sanibel Island, certain adjacent waters, and part of Captiva were closed by Presidential (Truman) Proclamation to hunting or molesting of migratory birds. The 100-acre Bailey Tract was purchased in 1952; an additional 473 acres of Public Domain land were deeded to the Refuge. On August 22, 1967, the name of the refuge was changed from Sanibel National Wildlife Refuge to J.N. "Ding" Darling. Present acreage owned by the Refuge totals over 5,000

1950 - Move started by Lee County Chamber of Commerce to have bridge built between Sanibel and Punta Rassa.

1951 - Paving of eight miles of Sanibel-Captiva Road requested by the residents. Cost put at $65,000.

1951 – The press states, "The third best shelling beach in the world is found on an island in the Gulf of Mexico - Sanibel, Florida, off the southwest coast."

1952 - According to the press, less than 50 families make their home on Sanibel with a total population, including children, of not more than 150.

May 26 1963 - Last ferry run made to Sanibel.

May 26, 1963 - Sanibel Bridge and Causeway opened.

November 1974 - Voters decide to become a City.